Well, I bought this guy used off of Ebay. New, it probably cost around $750. It has sonic holography, which supposedly opens up the room increasing imaging and depth restoring the 3 dimensionality of live performances, but setting it up requires strategic speaker placement that my room just doesn't offer to me, so my speakers remain triangulated and I have yet to try sonic holography. The tuner isn't bad, the ACCD tuning section that supposedly brings in weaker stations didn't really seem to do anything, but hey I live in the city. Anyhow, it picked up the frequencies I wanted just fine. The remote is tiny and just has basic functions for volume, tuning and selecting the various inputs. I have it powering an old pair of infinity qe (emit tweeter) bookshelf speakers.

• Carver Htr-880 Home Theater Receiver Manual

I used to use an old Technics receiver, (circa 1970) built like a tank. In the replacment, I noticed that the bass had more kick and cymbals now shimmer beautifully, vocals are also clearer throughout the volume range. So, all around it just sounds wonderful and really brought my system together. However, it was DOA due to several bad solders at the factory that were bound to short the main board eventually. So, even though it was double boxed with foam when it was shipped, UPS jarred it enough to damage the bad solder points enough so that they needed fixing. Just a note, Carver's authorized repair dealer charges $150 flat rate, plus you have to pay for shipping.

I found a local reputable repair store to fix the bad solders for around $115. In the 1990's, Carver began using factories in other countries (Japan) to assemble their units and hence quality went down. Hence the bad soldering. Anyhow, I still got a great deal on it and the seller agreed to pay half of the repair cost.

In addition, I am confident in longterm reliability. If anyone needs info email me as I have the original manual. Well, I bought this guy used off of Ebay. New, it probably cost around $750. It has sonic holography, which supposedly opens up the room increasing imaging and depth restoring the 3 dimensionality of live performances, but setting it up requires strategic speaker placement that my room just doesn't offer to me, so my speakers remain triangulated and I have yet to try sonic holography.

The tuner isn't bad, the ACCD tuning section that supposedly brings in weaker stations didn't really seem to do anything, but hey I live in the city. Anyhow, it picked up the frequencies I wanted just fine.

The remote is tiny and just has basic functions for volume, tuning and selecting the various inputs. I have it powering an old pair of infinity qe (emit tweeter) bookshelf speakers. I used to use an old Technics receiver, (circa 1970) built like a tank. In the replacment, I noticed that the bass had more kick and cymbals now shimmer beautifully, vocals are also clearer throughout the volume range.

So, all around it just sounds wonderful and really brought my system together. However, it was DOA due to several bad solders at the factory that were bound to short the main board eventually. So, even though it was double boxed with foam when it was shipped, UPS jarred it enough to damage the bad solder points enough so that they needed fixing. Just a note, Carver's authorized repair dealer charges $150 flat rate, plus you have to pay for shipping. I found a local reputable repair store to fix the bad solders for around $115. In the 1990's, Carver began using factories in other countries (Japan) to assemble their units and hence quality went down.

Hence the bad soldering. Anyhow, I still got a great deal on it and the seller agreed to pay half of the repair cost.

In addition, I am confident in longterm reliability. If anyone needs info email me as I have the original manual. I actually own the model 722, which is a previous version of the 732. I bought it (used)for about $100 because I wanted digital tuning and my wife wanted a black face to match our other components.

It is a great sounding unit. I needed an amp with a lot of power at 4 ohms (I was driving old AR3a's, which are real power hogs), and this unit delivered nicely.

Some of the nice features are: (1) Bass, Mid, and Treble tone controls (did you know that a lot of newer units don't have ANY tone controls?). (2) The Sonic Holography adds a certain 'depth' to the music. (3) I don't have FM reception problems, so can't comment on the ACCD circuitry.

But if I ever move to the boondocks, it might help. I only have two complaints: (1) the AM reception is terrible- no matter what I do for an antenna, it's worse than a $5 kid's radio! Fortunately, I don't listen to AM much.

(2) the row of identical small buttons for selecting stations and other functions. I was always pressing the wrong button (especially the 'memory' button and screwing up my presets). Finally, I painted the 'memory' button red (nail polish), and that seems to have done the trick.

Note: I understand that Carver quality became pretty bad in the early 90's. The company went bankrupt, and has been re-purchased by the original owner. I have heard that the new stuff is dynamite. If you want Carver, I would go for the older or newer models, but I would be a little leary of the mid-90's stuff. I actually own the model 722, which is a previous version of the 732. I bought it (used)for about $100 because I wanted digital tuning and my wife wanted a black face to match our other components. It is a great sounding unit.

I needed an amp with a lot of power at 4 ohms (I was driving old AR3a's, which are real power hogs), and this unit delivered nicely. Some of the nice features are: (1) Bass, Mid, and Treble tone controls (did you know that a lot of newer units don't have ANY tone controls?). (2) The Sonic Holography adds a certain 'depth' to the music.

(3) I don't have FM reception problems, so can't comment on the ACCD circuitry. But if I ever move to the boondocks, it might help. I only have two complaints: (1) the AM reception is terrible- no matter what I do for an antenna, it's worse than a $5 kid's radio! Fortunately, I don't listen to AM much. (2) the row of identical small buttons for selecting stations and other functions. I was always pressing the wrong button (especially the 'memory' button and screwing up my presets).

Finally, I painted the 'memory' button red (nail polish), and that seems to have done the trick. Note: I understand that Carver quality became pretty bad in the early 90's. The company went bankrupt, and has been re-purchased by the original owner.

I have heard that the new stuff is dynamite. If you want Carver, I would go for the older or newer models, but I would be a little leary of the mid-90's stuff. Here is a product summary from the 1993 Stereo Review Buyers Guide: HR-732 60-W/ch Receiver 2 channels. Features motor-driven volume control. 6 audio inputs; 3 video inputs; 2 video outputs; headphone jack. 30 AM/FM presets with scan; auto/manual tuning; signal-strength indicator; A/B speaker switching; bass, treble and balance controls; 2 AC outlets; remote control. 60 W x 2 into 8 ohms or 100 W x 2 into 4 ohms from 20-20,000 Hz with 0.09% THD; 120 W x 2 into 2 ohms.

S/N 100dBA amp, 80 dBA MM. FM: cap ratio 2.2 dB; AM rej 62 dB; alt-ch sel 65 dB; ch sep 45dB. 19 x 5 1/4 x 15 1/2 in.

$500 In 1994 Carver added the HR-742 which looks similar with 80 W/ch, adds pre-out/main-in loops. Overall, this receiver has been great (5 stars for value). It has been used daily as my AV receiver since 1993. This does not have surround processing (DD or DPL), but does have Carver's Sonic Holography, which adds life to any input source. It has never been in the shop, and has run like a trooper. Plus, it has those classic Carver good looks - those rack handles combined with the brushed aluminum and plastic face present a modern look that never ages.

Here is a product summary from the 1993 Stereo Review Buyers Guide: HR-732 60-W/ch Receiver 2 channels. Features motor-driven volume control. 6 audio inputs; 3 video inputs; 2 video outputs; headphone jack. 30 AM/FM presets with scan; auto/manual tuning; signal-strength indicator; A/B speaker switching; bass, treble and balance controls; 2 AC outlets; remote control. 60 W x 2 into 8 ohms or 100 W x 2 into 4 ohms from 20-20,000 Hz with 0.09% THD; 120 W x 2 into 2 ohms. S/N 100dBA amp, 80 dBA MM.

Carver Htr-880 Home Theater Receiver Manual

FM: cap ratio 2.2 dB; AM rej 62 dB; alt-ch sel 65 dB; ch sep 45dB. 19 x 5 1/4 x 15 1/2 in. $500 In 1994 Carver added the HR-742 which looks similar with 80 W/ch, adds pre-out/main-in loops. Overall, this receiver has been great (5 stars for value).

It has been used daily as my AV receiver since 1993. This does not have surround processing (DD or DPL), but does have Carver's Sonic Holography, which adds life to any input source. It has never been in the shop, and has run like a trooper. Plus, it has those classic Carver good looks - those rack handles combined with the brushed aluminum and plastic face present a modern look that never ages.

(The model is 1993; I don't know why I didn't have the option and had to put 1995) This is a very good receiver for the price (used). The construction is very solid and very good looking. The display of buttons helps to this but is quite uncomfortable for using. Specially the preset dialing with the memo key so close. Power is a very strong 60W. They move 3 way speakers very easily. The bass is deep but quite round.

Not very defined. I like how the volume knob works. There is no distortion in any frequency when volume is changed. I miss the pre-amp in-out. (The model is 1993; I don't know why I didn't have the option and had to put 1995) This is a very good receiver for the price (used). The construction is very solid and very good looking. The display of buttons helps to this but is quite uncomfortable for using.

Specially the preset dialing with the memo key so close. Power is a very strong 60W. They move 3 way speakers very easily. The bass is deep but quite round. Not very defined. I like how the volume knob works.

There is no distortion in any frequency when volume is changed. I miss the pre-amp in-out.

Q& Q&A - #6 - April 3, 1997 Q In reading your review of the Sunfire Subwoofer, I found something that just doesn't sound right. Your power calculation. If you use 120 volts for the voltage input to the amp, this is already an rms equivalent. The peak voltage from the AC line is approx.

Also, there is no duty cycle associated with the line voltage, it is simply 120V rms x 3.5A = 420W. If efficiency is 90% (power out/power in), then the resulting output power = 378W. Please clarify this if I have overlooked something, it seems straight forward.

A The effective rms value for the 120 line voltage is not 120 V in the power supply of the Sunfire Subwoofer. Look at a diagram which represents the situation in the Sunfire.

There is a 1/5 duty cycle at B+ and B-, so the calculation of the effective rms value (Vrms) is 120 x 1.414 = 169.68; Vrms = Square root of (169.68 squared/5) = 75.88 Vrms. Q Hello: I think I just found a wonderful web location. I am considering purchasing Klipschorn speakers. What do you think. They sound wonderful in the store.

They were powered by a Cary amp. I can't afford Cary. The vendor said a Carver HTR-880 Receiver would power the Klipschorns and five smaller sets of wall speakers I have in other rooms in my house at the same time. Is that true?

As you know the Klipschorn speakers are built to fit snugly into wall corners. The way my house is constructed one speaker would be one inch from the wall on both sides; the other speaker would be one inch from one wall and 2 inches from the other wall. Will that placement significantly affect sound quality? If the 880 Receiver is not adequate, what do you recommend. Another person recommended a separate amplifier with 200 watts per side.

I am a novice and I need help. I am not rich! However, I did like the Klipschorns very much. I am thinking of an amp in the range of $1,000-$1,500 (please don't laugh).

Thank you for your help. A Even though the Klipsch are efficient, it seems that you might be using more than one set of speakers at the same time. This places large current demands on the amplifier. Therefore, I would suggest that you get separates, since amps in receivers are usually not built for heavy current requirements. On the other hand, as long as the receiver has pre-out RCA jacks, you can connect more powerful amplifiers to the receiver and accomplish the same thing. You may want to add surround sound later on, so get a receiver (or preamp/processor) that has surround sound decoding, and just use the stereo channels for the time being.

Carver has good products. I also saw a Yamaha 2090 now on sale for $1,000, which is a bargain. It has the 5.1 set of inputs that will keep you forward compatible (AC-3 and DTS). Q I have two issues that I am confused about and I was hoping that you could help me. The first question has to do with amplifier power.

My receiver is a Pioneer VSX-503. It is not supposed to be able to drive 4 ohm loads but in the back of the manual it gives a dynamic power. The values are 2 ohms = 265 watts, 4 ohms = 240 watts, and 8 ohms = 170 watts. What does this mean? The receiver is supposed to only output 110 watts into 8 ohms.

Could you clear this up for me? Also, on most new components I have noticed the component control connections. According to the manuals these systems help components of the same brand communicate to make operation easier.

What exactly do these features do and are any of the different brands compatible? A few examples of these systems are: the Pioneer control jacks or the Kenwood CCRS system. Thanks for your help!

A Dynamic power is a term used by the mass market component manufacturers. It means the power that an amplifier can deliver on a short term basis (a transient peak, such as a gun shot or snare drum crack) into the speaker load. The 110 w/ch rating of your receiver is the rms rating, that is, continuous power into the 8 Ohm speaker load. It will also deliver 170 w/ch into 8 Ohms, 240 w/ch into 4 Ohms, and 265 w/ch into 2 Ohms for the short (transient) peaks. An 8 Ohm speaker is not 8 Ohms across its entire audio spectrum, but rather, it averages 8 Ohms.

At any one frequency, the impedance might be 5 Ohms, 8 Ohms, 11 Ohms, etc. A 4 Ohm speaker might go down to 3 Ohms and up to 10 Ohms. For any typical mass market receiver, it is best to stick with 8 Ohm speakers. The component control connections are a way of getting separates to behave like an integrated system.

I have seen several different connectors on the back of various brands of components. They are not all necessarily compatible, but are actually designed so that you are more likely to buy the same brand of CD player, FM Tuner, Amplifier, etc. Q What do you folks recommend for cleaning speaker cabinet veneers? A Much of what looks like wood veneer is actually vinyl.

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It can be cleaned with just about anything that is not harsh. Otherwise, some of the dye can come off. However, we use Lemon Pledge (Johnson Wax) for all speaker cabinets. Wood veneers are usually finished with lacquer rather than the more durable polyurethane. A good quality furniture polish works well. For electronic components, we clean with a damp cloth rather than any chemical or wax.

Q I have a quick question. If I hook up a straight DTS decoder that sends 5 full bandwidth channels, and the.1 sub to a THX speaker system and 6 channel amp, will I get a loss of bass below 80 Hz? In other words, do you think a THX system will sound bass deficient as compared to standard THX/Pro Logic? A THX is a set of standards that operates on top of Pro Logic and other decoding formats.

It is not a format in itself. As more and more processing gets piled on top of each other, you could end up with sending the.